The dish that did this to me, that unseated the wondrous spectacle of a 9-course molecular gastronomy tasting menu or the more rustic pleasures of a streetside bowl of Halah-prepared chicken rice with tzatziki and hot sauces, was a simple steamed bun with pork belly, hoison, cucumber and scallion.
With this bite...
In eight short months, 22 tables will be assigned to guests at my wedding. Each of those is going to correspond to an unforgettable eating experience that I shared with my fiance. This is a chronicle of those experiences.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
#2 Momofuku Ssam Bar (New York, NY)
The dish that did this to me, that unseated the wondrous spectacle of a 9-course molecular gastronomy tasting menu or the more rustic pleasures of a streetside bowl of Halah-prepared chicken rice with tzatziki and hot sauces, was a simple steamed bun with pork belly, hoison, cucumber and scallion.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
An ode to pig...
Everywhere, the pig is getting its long overdue, but just due props.
And I myself have to admit that I also am guilty as charged... I am a lover of pig.

However, this new, misguided mindset has changed for me this past weekend, when my friend Edwin took a group of us to Don Dae Gam Pork BBQ. Ed explained that because beef is so expensive in Korea, pork is the standard and, as in the case of so many other formerly humble foods, the preparation of pork dishes has now been elevated to almost an art form--my own flowery hyperbole added for affect.
I can't even fathom or entirely describe in words the way that I loved the experience or the way that each individual dish rekindled my love for pork...
It has to do with the careful balance of flavors, of a splash of soy sauce with chopped peppers or a fine coat of ground salt and pepper, of the way the umami of the sauce melds with the natural sweetness of the meat and the sour spiciness of the pepper-dressed lettuce, of any level of adornment or unadornment you choose to form the perfect bite.It has to do with the different textures, the way that grilled meat (yes, the meat pictured above is beef) becomes transformed from raw to cooked to charred, the way the fat gains so much when it starts to solidify and then crust, all wrapped in the crunch of preserved daikon or the supple softness of the rice cake (duk) wrapper.And at Don Dae Gam, it even had something to do with the amazing accompaniments: the seafood pancake...
the spicy octopus with rice cake...
and the kimchi fried (brown) rice.
But above all else, it was the pork... the meat was of amazing quality, sliced and marinaded with great care and respect. The neck and the belly were featured in all their glory. It was like a homecoming for me, a reminder of a long lost love returned.Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Some recent highlights - The Loft and Sweets Truck
(1) the loco moco
Nonetheless, the Hawaiian fried chicken with accompanying cabbage salad really did deliver on its promise. Anna and I often marvel over the heavenly creation that is fried chicken in all its infinite permutations of Southern, Japanese, Korean, Thai and, most notably, Hawaiian perfection. The Hawaiian version is sweeter than the others, with no bones to mess with as you ravenously devour it with rice, mac salad and hot sauce. The cabbage salad had a good crunch (aided by small bits of uncooked ramen noodles) with just a bit of bitter and just the right touch of acid from the dressing to counterbalance the other elements on the plate.
The meal reached a satisfying conclusion with the pineapple cake.
*****
I can't conclude this post without a heartfelt thanks to Molly from the Sweets Truck. Not only did they generously support Achievable at the recent Westside Food Fest and El Pozo at Cupcake Camp OC, but they also continue to be extremely kind and gracious towards me whenever I see them out in public. Last week, I dropped off a tee shirt for Molly and bought a few of their highly-addictive Red Velvet ding dongs.
Friday, August 6, 2010
From the Vaults - best soba in town (Bangkok, Thailand)
*****
Unlike other Asian cold-noodles (most notably Chinese liang mien or Korean nyang mien), soba is meant to be engulfed with a healthy slurp, rather than chewed. As the noodle hits the back of the throat, the hardness of its form is noted, and the usually peripheral gustation receptors at the back of the tongue discern the taste. Homemade buckwheat soba differs quite dramatically from factory-produced soba. Production of homemade soba involves grinding of soba seeds into a fine powder, with the full hardness and sweetness of the soba intact. Factory-production often results in the loss of the soba aroma, the stripping away of the sweet soba skin, and a softer (limper) noodle.
Homemade buckwheat soba exists in
The menu at the soba house revolved around the hand-crafted soba, most notably the zaru soba. This cold soba arrived atop a bamboo mat, with separate bowls for hot dip, cold dip, and finely sliced onions with wasabi. Also included were two carafes: one with cold soba sauce and another with hot soba run-off. The hot dip was not bad, with a taste of fish stock, eggplant and onions, and a touch of sugar. However, the sauce was overwhelmingly salty, and the heat welted the soba, robbing it of its natural hardness. On the other hand, the cold dip was more mild and refreshing. I mixed the cold dip myself in a small bowl, with soba sauce (soy sauce, sugar and meting), onions and wasabi. The element of control involved with the preparation of the sauce allows the consumer to vary quantities of each ingredient according to his or her preference, adjusting savoriness and sweetness in a likewise fashion. The natural sweetness and textures of both the soba noodles and the onions were far more noticeable with the cold dip, with flavors suggesting a hint of fish stock and sugar. The hardness of the noodle was noticeable, and the melding of the buckwheat soba and sauce fantastic!
The soba meal concluded with the pouring of the hot soba-runoff into what was left of the cold soba dip. This was the part that I loved the most! There was a certain art to this process, involving just the right amount of each liquid. The final masterfully concocted soup had a foggy consistency, much like miso soup. There was a subtlety to the taste, yet also a richness of flavor that was not unlike a hot pot of shabu shabu after a long night of cooking.
Yes Virginia, there is homemade buckwheat soba in Bangkok... and it is GOOD!
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
#1 Waiola Shave Ice (Honolulu, Hawaii)

During our short stay in Honolulu, we tried to sample everything: fresh poki, laulau, Zippy's loco moco, the aforementioned Local Deluxe Breakfast, Liliha's creme puffs, every ounce of spam musubi that we could find, kalua pork pulled straight from the pig (at least that's what the luau operators led us to believe), another phenomenal breakfast at the Halekulani, sample upon sample of Honolulu Cookie Company's dipped shortbread cookies, and even a few fingertips of poi. We tried almost all of Anthony Bourdain's choice stops (more on this in another post) and most of the local favorites. Though we were devastated to run out of time before testing out the shrimp trucks and shaved ice of the North Shore, we left content knowing that we had sampled heaven in a Styrofoam cup.
Perhaps part of the perfection of Waiola had to do with our surroundings. In the sweltering tropical heat of Oahu, a situation exacerbated by our unwillingness to put the top up on our Mustang convertible, few things could possibly have tasted as good as a perfect cup (and I do mean perfect) of Hawaiian shaved ice.
The first element of the charm of Waiola Shave Ice has to do with the location. Waiola is situated in the middle of a suburban neighborhood, surrounded by houses and apartment complexes just a few minutes drive away from Kalakaua Ave via King St. We knew that we had arrived as soon as we saw the long line snaking around the corner. This line consisted of a motley crew of locals and camera-wielding tourists, and ended at a window that formed the side of a small mini-mart.
And the "shave ice" itself? Read the first word of this post and let it sink in. The secret is the consistency of the ice. Biting into Waiola's version is like placing your mouth onto freshly fallen snow, like God's amazing, previously unreproducible work of artistry on your lips. Mixed with condensed milk, the texture takes on an added dimension, like the most perfect, light as air ice cream.
There were plenty of flavor options, of dizzying arrays of tropical syrups, toppings and fillings. Every option that we tried was simply amazing with just the right hint of flavor, just the right amount of paradise without becoming overwhelmingly saccharine sweet. My personal favorite was a large cup of half lilikoi and half melona, with condensed milk generously lathered on top and ice cream on the bottom.
Before I experienced Waiola, I had never been a fan of Hawaiian shaved ice. But ever since returning to the mainland, I've sought that magic combination of consistency and texture and flavor time and time again with greater and greater disappointment. I now know that my only hope is my next stop at Waiola Shave Ice.
Monday, August 2, 2010
First, the rules

Over the course of the next eight months, I'm planning on reflecting upon the 22 most indescribably brilliant (though I will try to describe them) eating moments that my fiance and I have had the privilege of sharing. These 22 rapturous events will make up the table themes at our wedding. Let me tell you in advance--we do LOVE eating... probably as much as we love each other. And we (by we, I mostly mean she) also love great deals.
Feel free to agree, disagree or even add your own a-ha moments. There's still time for us to make edits. ;)
Btw, I may throw in a post or two (or three...) about some of the places that I've been to on my own over the years. And if I try something new that just absolutely demands attention, I may be forced to post about that, as well. For example, Jocko's in Nipomo, CA DEMANDS me to act. Some good things just can't be contained.